Dine Birmingham | Restaurant & Bar Reviews

Adam Stokes: The new Michelin Star Chef in Birmingham [interview]

Birmingham’s holy trinity of Michelin-starred chefs – Richard Turner, Glynn Purnell and Andreas Antona – are joined by a fourth on Friday 12^th April. That’s when Adam Stokes, a Lincolnshire chef who earned his Michelin Star at Glenapp Castle in Scotland, finally opens doors at the much-anticipated adam’s restaurant.

[by Ahmed Ahmed]

When I joined Adam at the site on Bennett’s Hill a fortnight before opening, it was still very much a work-in-progress. The first thing I noticed about the man himself was his extraordinary height. The second was the obvious passion this new venture excites in him.

As he guided me through the compact premises, dodging workmen and stepping carefully over metal poles, he explained in detail where everything was to go – here the wine cabinet, there the pass, overhead the soft mood lights – and I could almost see it too.

After the tour, we sat down for a coffee, and I took the opportunity to ask a few questions.

We first heard about the new restaurant coming to the city last year – has it been a long and difficult process to get to opening, or a painless one?

I have been wanting to set up my own restaurant for years, and with my wife Natasha we are lucky enough to be able to realise that dream. Coming to Birmingham we wanted to create a small pop-up with a view to moving to a larger premises within a couple of years. Our search for the perfect location has taken us down the route of converting a sandwich shop into a dining venue. There have been plenty of obstacles and it has taken a lot of work to change the internal workings but we just loved the location.

What was the thinking behind setting up shop in Birmingham?

I am from the Midlands and I was ready to come back. I grew up in Lincolnshire and Natasha is from Leicester, we’ve worked in Leicestershire, Derby, Nottingham and now we feel it’s a natural progression to come here.

I think Birmingham is a terrific city, the people are very savvy, it’s very vibrant, and all the quality restaurants here prove that fine dining works. Aside from the three Michelin star restaurants in Birmingham, there are many fantastic places on the cusp of Michelin stars. I see a very keen push towards being the best.

Awards like the Michelin Star and the AA Rosettes – how important are they to you, as a chef?

It’s great to get recognition, but to be honest, we just do what we do. I have my own cooking identity, while getting inspiration from other chefs, from eating out and from travelling. Recently I was in Vietnam and I found it phenomenal – Asian meets French style. All these fresh South East Asian ingredients in French cooking make a beautiful combination.

And I’m into healthy cuisine – gone are the days of heavy red wine sauces and creamy dishes, in my opinion.

How would you describe the menu at the new adam’s Restaurant in Birmingham?

Modern British food. What I like to do is to take familiar marriages – not wacky pairings of ingredients – but put them together in an unfamiliar, interesting way. So one example would be the pig’s trotter, smoked eel and bacon jam. We cook the trotters for ages until they’re gelatinous just like the eel, then we cut it up in such a way that you can’t tell which part is the pig and which is the eel.

So there’s definitely a bit of a wow factor – you like to surprise your diners?

Absolutely. We use scientific techniques too, to change the texture and presentation of things but ultimately to improve the dish. For example, the white onion puree. White onions have a high water content which means they don’t puree well. So we take lots of onions, mix them with a milky stock and thicken them with a special agent called Gellan gum, then after a cooking process you get a silky smooth gel – which gives a better mouth feel with more onion flavour.

And where do you get your ingredients from? Local sources?

The first issue is quality. But then yes, as far as possible, local. Our pork comes from a small farm down the road, but the scallops have to be from a specific supplier I trust in Scotland. I’m looking forward to getting to know more local suppliers.

Small independent producers, or larger ones – do you have any preference?

We try to stay away from the larger companies – smaller suppliers are generally more passionate and more bespoke. But quality always dictates – if something’s not right we always send it back.

I just found a game supplier in Studley – he’s just a small-scale butcher but really keen and enthusiastic. I was driving back from a meeting and stopped when I saw two pheasants hanging by a shop. I went in to ask if he had any woodcocks, which he did. For me – these are the king of game. And they were stunning.

So, imagine you have the night off, where would you take Natasha [his wife and partner at adam’s] for a meal in Birmingham?

Well, I like different things at different times. Last night we went to Lasan Eatery. Last Friday, we ate at a pop-up in Leverton and Halls deli. Over the past year, we’ve eaten at Simpsons and Purnells, and loved both. And we’re looking forward to trying more.

We’re very keen on creating a casual dining experience at adam’s. For example we’ve painted the high ceiling to create the illusion of a more intimate space. We want people to feel special but relaxed.

And what do you like to do when you’re not cooking or dining?

This one’s easy – sleep! And spend time with the wife and family.

adam’s Restaurant opens to the public on Friday 12 April and will serve two tasting menus of varying length. A shorter three course menu will also be available at lunchtime. The ‘Tasting 5’ and ‘Tasting 9’ menus are priced at £45 and £75 respectively, and are complemented by a focused wine list.

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Blue Piano | Singaporean | Edgbaston

It’s always intriguing to try a restaurant whose name doesn’t give you any indication as to what will be on offer. The Blue Piano, in Edgbaston, is a South East Asian restaurant situated on the busy Harborne Road. The owners are from Singapore, and wanted to bring the diverse Oriental cuisine of this island – taking in Thai, Cambodian and Malaysian influences – to Birmingham. When I got the invite to dine at the restaurant I quickly had a look at their website to see what would be on offer. Having never eaten this type of cuisine before, I wanted to be prepared.

[by Lisa]

atmosphere

Situated in an old Victorian house, there are several rooms that make up this colonial-inspired restaurant. There is a bar that you can relax in either before you dine, or just for drinks. Opposite this there is a more relaxed lounge area with leather sofas and a large fire. These lead you through to the restaurant which has wicker chairs and chandeliers. We visited mid-week and there were only a few other diners, so it was difficult to get the full feel of what the atmosphere would be like when busy. But I suspect it would be something near the luxurious hustle and bustle of a Singaporean hotel such as Raffles. I loved the relaxed music that was playing, which certainly added to the colonial atmosphere they are trying to emulate.

food

I was really looking forward to the food, although still not sure what to quite expect. For starters, I was instantly drawn to the Singapore carrot cake, so along with this we also chose the clementi sharing platter. The carrot cake, which is one of the signature dishes, is made of savoury rice cakes combining carrots, mooli and spices. I must say I really enjoyed it. The texture of the savoury rice cakes and carrots was more like rubbery fish to me and my companion commented that they looked like potato wedges. All of the flavours combined well together. I could have easily had a larger portion as a main course. The Clementi sharing platter overall got the thumbs up, consisting of two chicken satay skewers, two cheeky prawns, and a five spice roll (pork wrapped in tofu skin). We both enjoyed the prawns and the roll, but my companion found the chicken skewers a little bit dry.

For the main course, I chose roast duck, rambutan and jackfruit red curry with stir-fried noodles. I do tend to prefer sweeter dishes rather than spicy, so this was a perfect choice for me. I thought the grouping of flavours worked well, especially the exotic fruits, and I feel the accompaniment of egg noodles rather than rice added to the intensity of flavour.

My companion chose prawn tamarind curry with nasi lemak rice. It was served on a large leaf and there was a lot on the plate. He remarked on the interesting contrast of textures: soft rice cooked in coconut milk and aromatic herbs, alongside crunchy roasted peanuts. The tamarind-flavoured prawns and anchovies. We thought that this was all the dish needed, and the prawn crackers, hardboiled egg and cucumber slices were unnecessary extras. However, this could be my English palate speaking.

We were convinced to have dessert. For me it had to be, fresh out of the oven, orange drizzle cake with orange curd. This was a really light flavoursome cake and the orange curd was a really lovely complement. My companion had the Japanese Moochi ice-cream choosing two flavours of green tea and sesame. We both looked at these inquisitively when they came out; they didn’t look like ‘normal’ ice cream and nor did they taste like it! The texture could only be described as slightly rubbery. They are made of rice skin, which gives them this unique gelatinous feel. We had mixed feelings on this; if you are expecting a refreshing dairy ice cream then it’s not the dessert for you.

drinks

There is a good selection of wines, draught beers, spirits and cocktails available. My companion enjoyed a couple of glasses of the house white wine, which he found fruity and exotic, in keeping with the menu.

pricing

Singapore Carrot Cake = £4.95

Clementi sharing platter = £10.95

Prawn Tamarind Curry with Nasi Lemak = £16.95

Roast Duck, Rambutan and Jackfruit Red Curry = £10.95

Stir-fried Noodles and Beansprouts = £3.95

overall

For my first foray into South East Asian food, I was impressed with Blue Piano. I loved the unusual flavour combinations and am keen to try more. It certainly has more pizzazz than other Oriental food in Birmingham, such as Chinese. It is a shame that the night we visited was quiet as I think this style of restaurant needs a vibrant atmosphere to show off. I liked the individual spaces for relaxing and private parties, as well as the outside garden.

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The Manic Organic Cafe | Vegetarian | Kings Heath

The Manic Organic Cafe is nestled in the suburban side streets of Kings Heath, Birmingham, echoing a feel of London’s Notting Hill or Clapham, and only a minute from the main High Street. If you’re looking for vegetarian restaurants in Birmingham, Manic Organic Cafe is a calm retreat with a 100% vegetarian, organic offering.

[by Anna Rose]

atmosphere

Although it’s quite a small venue, my first impression was how busy it was – its popularity is such that people were being turned away or asked to wait for a table. Praise indeed and a fabulous endorsement! The atmosphere itself was lively; buzzing yet relaxed and in addition, it seemed child-friendly with books available to keep little ones amused.

The décor is bohemian-inspired with a lot of arts and crafts on display, and some pieces available to buy. There is a small garden at the rear of the café which people use as a waiting area (weather permitting).

food

The menu is a veggie’s dream as everything on offer is suitable for vegetarians, which certainly isn’t the case at all restaurants. Plus, the menu states that the food is fresh, organic and sourced locally where possible (typically from farms within a 25 mile radius). The table condiments were mostly organic as well.

Menu choices include: nibbles (such as olive pots), soups, grilled sandwiches (including avocado, brie & cranberry, feta & olive) burgers, omelettes (using local eggs), large salads and internationally-inspired dishes like samosas, falafel and halloumi.

I opted for the homemade veggie burger, which was made up of grains, herbs, garlic and seasoning. It was served on a ciabatta bun with a portion of Kettle crisps, a pot of homemade tomato chutney and could come with either salad or coleslaw. When ordering, I was offered the choice to have half-salad, half-coleslaw which was a welcome suggestion as it meant I could sample everything. The burger also came with some add-on toppings such as somerset brie or farmhouse cheese. I chose the cheese and mushroom option. The burger and its accompaniments arrived beautifully presented and tasted extremely fresh and delicious. The portion size was generous and very filling.

My husband, who was my dining partner, opted for the omelette which came with fried potatoes and salad. Omelette topping choices included herb de provence, cheese and tomato and olive oil and mushrooms, but he chose the cheese and mushroom option. Even though he is usually of a carnivorous nature, he was extremely impressed and didn’t miss the meat element in his meal. He commented on how the omelette tasted fresh and very light.

drink

There was a large choice of organic beverages ranging from coffees, speciality teas to bottled soft drinks and milkshakes. Cold drinks come in the form of a can, bottle or carton and this was emphasised by the waitress who went through the options with me. We both chose an organic sparkling drink, elderflower and ginger respectively, which were both very refreshing.

pricing

Homemade Veggie Burger (with chips) = £7.45

Cheese and Mushroom Omelette = £6.95

Elderflower/Ginger sparkling = £1.60 each

things to note

Opening times vary daily, so it is worth checking their opening hours ahead of arriving to avoid disappointment. On-street parking is available by the café, but during busy times, it is worth parking on one of the neighbouring side-streets to avoid traffic congestion.

overall

This is an excellent venue with a wide choice of food and drinks whether for a quick coffee or for a hearty lunch. Pricing for food is excellent value considering it is organic and made on site. Manic Organic is a definite new haunt for me and a recommendation to all those seeking somewhere new to try. It’s a place where vegetarians and meat-eaters alike can enjoy a delicious dining experience in a relaxed environment.